Feb 17, 2012, New York City: Black, white, red and plenty of metallics dominated the runways at New York’s Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, Fall 2012. Many designers including Badgley Mischka, Carolina Herrera, Diane von Furstenberg, Zang Toi, Monique Lhuillier and others included this strong color palette in their collections. The overall mood was bold and glamorous with plenty of shimmery details. Indian design and designers showed the following.
Rising star Bibhu Mohapatra took a leap this year and did his first runway show at New York Fashion Week, Fall 2012. With more interest stirring around the designer, his show attracted actress Glenn Close and Vogue’s Meredith Melling Burke sitting front row. The collection, inspired by the early 20th-century Chinese opera “The White Haired Girl,” was a collection of eastern-influenced, impeccably tailored daywear and of course, his signature gowns. Bold printed red flowers showed up on pristine white silk dresses with an emphasis on broad shoulders and defined waists. Diamond cut fur coats were shown and the highlight of the show was a black and white fitted gown enhanced with sequin motifs, tulle and feathers.
Naeem Khan is known for dressing the world’s most glamorous women and his Fall 2012 Collection reflected its red-carpet readiness. Starting with the metallic palette of black and shades of white, the collection included gorgeous cigarette pants covered in foil platelets, cocktails dresses nipped in at the waist with full feather skirts, sheer (almost nude) gowns with Chantilly lace and sequins and of course, the expected show stoppers such as a stunning silvery white embroidered gown, a ribbon rosette laced buttery cream gown and a gold sequined, statuesque gown. A black strapless dress accented in mirrors was our personal favorite. Front row included Padma Lakshmi, Matt Damon and wife Luciana Barroso, and Gene Simmons’ wife Shannon Tweed Simmons. The statement jewelry was all by Ranjana Khan.
Falguni & Shane Peacock’s second showing at NYFW proved again this married duo is inspired by all things goth and glam. With form-fitting silhouettes accented in sheer cutout panels, metallic accents, flowing feathers and moody prints, the collection’s front row had Fern Mallis as well as Vixen’s Ashanti, Michelle Williams, and supermodel Petra Nemcova. Thighs and legs were emphasized in gowns with zipper slits and short dresses with sky-high hemlines. Side Note: Did you know that the dancers in Madonna’s Super Bowl XLVI halftime show were dressed by Falguni & Shane Peacock? A great nod for this talented duo.
Perhaps the most “Indian” of all collections was Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Métiers d’Art show (Pre-Fall 2012 Collection), entitled Paris-Bombay shown late last year in Paris. Not officially part of NYFW, this noteworthy collection included metallic saris, long tunic/dresses over slim pajama-like pants, sherwani-esque jackets and plenty of metallic Indian-inspired accessories such as sequined bags and kolipuri chappal shoes. Coco herself loved Indian jewelry and Lagerfeld’s Jewelry line is a luxurious interpretation of Bombay staples such as headpieces, armlets and necklaces. Make no mistake though, the collection was not about Bollywood kitsch but more about Bombay elegance. A brilliant collection for a growing international, couture-friendly audience.
*****
